White Truffles of Alba

A fungus that hides underground

The white truffle, Tuber magnatum, is the underground fruiting body of a fungus that lives in partnership with tree roots, especially oak, hazel, poplar and beech. It grows mainly in the Langhe and Monferrato hills of Piedmont in northern Italy, around the towns of Alba and Asti.

It is also found in other parts of Italy, such as Marche, Molise and Tuscany, and in places such as Istria in Croatia. It fruits in autumn and can reach about 12 centimetres across and 500 grams, though most are much smaller.

Why it is so costly

Unlike the black Périgord truffle, the white truffle has resisted reliable cultivation, so almost all of it is found in the wild. Harvests rise and fall with rain and temperature, and a dry summer can mean very few truffles.

Its scent comes from volatile compounds, including sulphur-containing molecules, that fade within days of harvest. That short life is why white truffles are sold fresh, by weight, and shaved raw over simple dishes such as pasta, risotto or eggs.

Prices change every season with supply, which is why they are usually reported by the gram or kilogram and vary widely from one year to the next. Buyers are advised to smell a truffle, feel that it is firm and buy from trusted sellers, because truffles from other species and regions can be passed off as Alba whites.

Dogs and hunters

Truffles are found by smell. Hunters, called trifolau in Piedmont, go out with trained dogs, often at night or early in the morning, and carefully dig out each truffle so as not to damage the roots and soil.

The Lagotto Romagnolo, a curly-coated Italian breed, is especially associated with truffle hunting. In December 2021 UNESCO added Italy's traditional knowledge and practice of truffle hunting and extraction to its list of the intangible cultural heritage of humanity.

The Alba fair

In 1928 Giacomo Morra, a restaurateur and hotelier from Alba, added a truffle exhibition to the town's harvest festival. The following year, 1929, saw the first dedicated truffle fair, which grew into today's International Alba White Truffle Fair.

Held each autumn, the fair includes a truffle market where experts check quality, along with tastings, cooking shows and an auction that raises money for charity. Visiting is one of the best ways to smell and taste a fresh white truffle.

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